In 2014 I made my first pattern and in 2016 began to publish them. At first I put the abbreviations in English because I could not find a glossary of abbreviations in Spanish that I liked. In English, they were indeed well-defined and structured.
Later I thought that this was not coherent, if the pattern was in Spanish the abbreviations should also be in Spanish, and my students also thought so. So, I decided to roll up my sleeves, get down to work and start my own glossary of abbreviations in Spanish from scratch.
I started by defining the basic ones, and as I needed more I added them, but sometimes when I needed some more I took apart all the previous ones. This was a process that required time, practice and experience to blossom and produce a coherent result.
In 2019, Carmen Garcia de Mora and I started working together to launch the first KNITLIGHT ebook. So, we had to agree to combine her glossary and mine, so that our knitters would find it easy to knit the garments and the e-book would be coherent. This was no easy task, but it yielded very good results. It is common knowledge that when you work in a good team, it always adds up.
Por lo tanto, poco a poco he ido consiguiendo el glosario que me gusta, me cuadra en la estructura que tengo en mente, funciona en mis patrones, y ha dado muy buen feedback en las clases de punto continuadas.
For all these reasons, I would like to share it with you today and I would be delighted of you also find it helpful. By the way, I am open to any kind of suggestion to continue to refine it as much as possible.
Juana Roman’s glossary of abbreviations
- […] x times: Repeat x times the indication inside the square brackets
- D: knit on the right (k)
- Dx: knit x stitches (kx)
- Dxr: knit x stitches from the right side through the back (twisted) (kx-tbl)
- R: knit inside out (p)
- Rx: knit x purl stitches (px)
- Rxr: knit x purl stitches through the back loop (twisted) (px-tbl)
- LD: right side of the work (RS)
- LR: wrong side of the work (WS)
- AD: right needle (RN)
- AI: left needle (LN)
- v: round/s, a complete row of stitches knitted in round (round/s)
- pas: pass/es, a complete row/s of stitches knitted flat (row/s)
- M: marker (m)
- Mi: beginning of round marker To avoid confusion, it is recommended that this marker be very different from the other markers (BOR)
- pM: place marker (pm)
- pMx: put marker x, where x refers to the number, name or color of the marker to identify it.
- dM: slide marker (sm)
- qM: remove marker (rm)
- CP: main color (MC)
- CC: color contrast (CC)
- CCx: color contrast x (CCx)
- d1Dh-dl: slip stitch as if knitted in the right side with the working yarn in front (sl1knitwisewyif) (help video HERE)
- d1Dh-dt: slip stitch as if knitted in the right side with the working yarn behind (sl1knitwisewyib) (help video HERE)
- d1Rh-dl: slip a stitch as if knitted purlwise with the working yarn in front (sl1 purlwise wyif) (help video HERE)
- d1Rh-dt: slip a stitch as if knitted purlwise with the working yarn behind (sl1 purlwise wyib) (help video HERE)
- d3Rh-dl: slip three stitches as if knitted purlwise with the working yarn in front (sl3 purlwise wyif) (help video HERE)
- d3Rh-dt: slip three stitches as if knitted purlwise with the working yarn at the back (sl3 purlwise wyib) (help video HERE)
- PDb – Double stitch in the German short rows: With the yarn in front of the work, slip 1 stitch from the left needle to the right as if knitting purl stitch. Pull the yarn back over the needle until two loops appear above the needle. If the next stitch to be knitted is from the right side, leave the yarn behind, if it is from the back side, keep going around the needle to bring the yarn to the front (DS – double stitch) Note: When counting stitches in the German short passes, you have to pay special attention to the double stitches, on the needles two loops appear in the form of “X” but in reality they count as a single stitch and this can be confusing. Ideally, double points (PDb) should be marked with open markers so that they can be identified at all times.
- bod: (k1, k1r, k1, k1r, k1, k1, k1r, k1) in the same stitch, make 7 stitches of 1. Then pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th stitches, one by one, over the 1st (bobble in English) (help video HERE)
INCREASES
- H: yarn over (yo) – increase 1 stitch (help video HERE)
- DDr: knit a stitch from the front and without releasing knit it from the back (kfb) – increase 1 stitch (help video HERE)
- RRr: purl one stitch in the front and purl one stitch in the back (pfb) – increase by 1 stitch
- DDrD: knit a stitch in the front, without loosening, knit it in the back and without loosening, knit it in the front again (kfbf) – increase by 2 stitches
- DRrD: knit, purl through the back loop, knit in the same stitch (KPtblK) – increase by 2 stitches
- DRD: knit, purl, knit in the same stitch (KPK) – increase by 2 stitches
- Ddes: knit a purl stitch without releasing it from the left needle, slip the remaining yarn on the left needle as if knitting backwards with the yarn behind it to the right needle (kfs) – increase by 1 stitch
- m1i: with the point of the left needle, pick up the thread that joins the stitch you have just knitted and the first stitch of the left needle from front to back and knit it from the right through the back thread (M1L) – increase 1 stitch tilted to the left (help video HERE)
- m1d: with the point of the left needle, pick up the thread that joins the stitch we have just knitted and the first stitch of the left needle from the back to the front and knit it from the right through the front thread (M1R) – increase 1 stitch tilted to the right (help video HERE)
- m1iR: With the point of the left needle, pick up the yarn joining the stitch you have just knitted and the first stitch of the left needle from the front to the back and knit it backwards through the back thread. (m1lp) – increase by 1 point tilted to the left
- m1dR: With the point of the left needle, pick up the yarn that joins the stitch we just knit and the first stitch of the left needle from the back to the front and knit it backwards through the front strand. (m1rp in English) – increase by 1 point tilted to the right
- m1ir: with the point of the left needle, pick up the thread that joins the stitch you have just knitted and the first stitch of the left needle from the front to the back and knit it backwards through the back thread (M1L-tbl) – increase by 1 stitch, slanting to the left
- m1dr: with the point of the left needle, pick up the thread that joins the stitch you have just knitted and the first stitch of the left needle from the back to the front and knit it backwards through the front thread (M1R-tbl) – increase 1 stitch by knitting 1 stitch tilted to the right
- aumLI: slip a stitch from the left needle to the right needle as if knitting it purlwise, pick up the left leg of the stitch just below the stitch you just slipped from the back to the front and knit it from the right backwards. (LLI) – increase by 1 point tilted to the left (help video HERE)
- aumLD: (RLI) – increase by 1 point tilted to the right (help video HERE)
- DHD: knit a single crochet without releasing it from the left needle, cast on, knit another single crochet in the same stitch (KYOK) – increase by 2 stitches (help video HERE)
- aum3a5d: [knit 3 stitches right side together and do not drop them from the left needle, cast on] twice, knit the same 3 stitches right side together again, and now drop them all from the left needle (K-inc3to5) – increase 2 stitches slanting to the right (help video HERE)
- aum3a5i: Slip 3 stitches separately as if knitting them from the right side of the left needle to the right needle and return them to the left needle with their new direction (P-inc3to5). [knit 3 stitches together from the back yarn and do not drop them from the left needle, cast on] twice, knit the same 3 stitches together again from the back yarn, and now drop them all from the left needle – increase 2 stitches slanting to the left (help video HERE)
- aum3a7d: [knit 3 stitches right side together and do not drop them from the left needle, cast on] twice, knit the same 3 stitches right side together again, and now drop them all from the left needle (K-inc3to7) – increase 4 stitches slanting to the right (help video HERE)
- aumd: knit 1 purl stitch, without releasing, knit 1 purl stitch in the row just below – increase 1 stitch (incd) (help video HERE)
- aumi: knit 1 stitch in the row just below the next stitch, without releasing, knit 1 stitch in the corresponding stitch (incl) – increase 1 stitch (help video HERE)
DECREASES
- 2pjD: knit two stitches together (k2tog) – decrease 1 stitch by slanting to the right (help video HERE)
- 2pjDr: knit two stitches together in the right side through the back loop (k2tog-tbl) – decrease 1 stitch
- 2pjR: purl two stitches together (p2tog) – decrease 1 stitch
- 2pjRr: purl two stitches together through the back loop (p2tog-tbl) – decrease by 1 stitch
- 3pjD: knit three stitches together (k3tog) – decrease 2 stitches to the right (2 stitches slanting)
- 3pjDr: knit three stitches together in the back row (k3tog-tbl) – decrease by 2 stitches
- 3pjR: knit three purl stitches together (p3tog) – decrease 2 stitches
- 4pjD: knit four stitches together (k4tog) – decrease 3 stitches slanted to the right
- dDc: slip a stitch as if knitted in a purl, knit a purl, mount the slipped stitch on the purl and release as if we were closing it (SKP) – decrease 1 stitch by slanting to the left
- d2pjDc: slip a stitch as if knitted in the purl, knit two stitches together in the purl, mount the slipped stitch on the purl and drop as if closing it (S2SSL) – decrease 2 stitches slanting to the left
- ddD: slip 2 stitches as if you were going to knit them right side up one by one, return them to the left needle with their new orientation and knit them together right side up through the back strand (ssk) – decrease 1 stitch slanting to the left (help video HERE)
- ddR: slip 2 stitches as if you were going to knit them right side up one by one, return them to the left needle with their new orientation and knit them together backwards through the back thread (ssp) – decrease 1 stitch by slanting to the left
- ddD’: slip 1 stitch as if you were going to knit it right side up, return it to the left needle with its new orientation and knit 2 stitches together right side up through the back strand (ssk) – decrease 1 stitch by slanting to the left
- d3D: slip 3 stitches as if you were going to knit them right-hand one by one, return them to the left needle with their new orientation and knit them together right-hand through the back thread (sssk) – decrease 2 stitches slanting to the left
- d4D: slip 4 stitches as if you were going to knit them right-hand one by one, return them to the left needle with their new orientation and knit them together right-hand through the back thread (s4k) – decrease 3 stitches slanting to the left
- ddc – double decrease centered: slip two stitches at the same time as if you were going to knit them right side together, knit 1 stitch right side together, slip the two slipped stitches over the stitch you just knitted and drop them (sk2p) – decrease 2 stitches centered (help video HERE)
- ddizq – double decrease to the left: slip 1 stitch as if knitted from the right, knit two stitches together from the right, slip the first stitch over it and cast off (SK2P) – decrease 2 stitches slanting to the left.
P.S.: I will update this as new abbreviations are added 🙂
Thank you very much for dedicating this little bit of your time, and have a great day!
Juana 🙂
